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Tomaz Humar在蓝塘里壤峰最后之攀的真实情况

2018-12-21 10:40| 发布者: admin| 查看: 269| 评论: 0|来自: 8264

Tomaz Humar的相关报道罕见于国内媒体,更别说事故分析了,登山皇帝莱因霍尔德.梅斯纳尔(REInhold Messner)说Tomaz Humar是地球上最伟大的阿式登山家
这么伟大的阿式登山家在蓝塘里壤峰完成了人生的最后之攀后,生命的时针永远地停在了41岁。
某权威媒体这样介绍该事件:
On November 9, 2009, Humar, who was on a solo climb via the South Face of Langtang Lirung (last climbed in 1995[9]), had an accident during the Descent.[10] His only contact with the base camp staff via a satellite phone was made on the day of the accident and he appeared to be in critical condition with leg, spine and rib injuries. He was stuck on the mountain at an elevation of approximately 6,300 meters for several days before his body was found on November 14, 2009 at an elevation of 5,600 meters.[11]
中文翻译如下:
2009年11月9日,Humar在solo蓝塘里壤峰南壁的下降阶段发生了事故。他唯一一次通过卫星电话与大本营职员联系是发生在事故当天。他的腿、脊柱、肋骨都伤了,情况危殆。他在海拔大约6,300 米的地方被困了好几天,随后,他的遗体于2009年11月14日在海拔5,600米的地方被发现。
那么这个介绍符合事实吗?不符合,至少以下两点完全不符合
(1)Humar没有在海拔大约6,300 米的地方被困好几天,他被困的地方的海拔是5,600 米
(2)Humar没有在在下降阶段发生事故,他是在攀登的上升阶段中的某个时间点发生的事故
这个帖子就是要证明这两点,并顺便说说:
(1)Humar怎么发生的事故?
(2)Humar坠落了多少米?
(3)Humar为什么会发生事故?
(4)Humar事前怎么做,才能在即使发生了这样的事故后,还能全身而退?
(5)从这次事故我们能得到哪些启示?
以下先用两张图介绍蓝塘里壤峰

被困6,300米好几天这个说法究竟是怎么来的?真实情况其实这样的:According to Jagat, Humar had called him a week before, on November 8, from 6,300 meters on the mountain’s south ridge. This is where the SHERPA team had gone to look for him. But Humar was found much lower, at 5,500 meters, in the middle of the southwest face. In his next calls, after the accident, he didn’t mention this, just that he would be hard to find.
从这段文字我们可以了解到,Humar在事故发生一周前的11月8日从海拔6,300米的南山脊某处给大本营的联络官打过电话。在事故发生后,Humar再给联络官打电话时没有提及海拔,只是说他将很难被找到。这让前去营救他的夏尔巴团队误以为他还在海拔6,300米,这导致第一次搜救没能发现他,最终他的遗体在海拔5,500 米被找到,也就是事故发生后他给大本营打电话的地方,Humar不是要solo南壁吗?那他为什么会出现在海拔6,300米的南山脊呢?从6,300米到5,500米是否就是Humar花去一周时间完成的攀登?那么这段攀登的用意何在呢?
其实这不是很难破解,看完下面这张示意图,就很容易解决这个问题:
从图中可看出,Humar因为某种考虑没有从南壁底部开始攀登,而是选择先攀上相对容易的南山脊,到达6,300米或其上的某个高点后再向南壁中央路线横切,横切到中央路线海拔5,500米上部的某个点后,或者还向上攀登了一段后,发生了事故,Humar从事故发生点坠落到中央路线的海拔5,500米处
这么一来,某权威媒体的所犯错误的第二点就不难理解了
(1)Humar怎么发生的事故?因为Humar是一个人攀登,事故发生时没有其他目击者,我们只能从事故现场推断事故是如何发生的,在哪发生的。发现Humar遗体的Anthamatten证实,Humar只穿了一件羽绒夹克,但是那就是他所有的装备了,Anthamatten说,“我找不到任何绳子,也找不到他的背包,他也没戴冰爪,没系安全带,什么也没有”。由此可以判断,事故显然不是在正在攀登时发生的,事故只可能是在宿营时发生的,Humar在营地休息的过程中,不知出于什么原因,离开帐篷到外面活动,在事先没设置任何安全措施的情况下滑坠了
Even more confusing was the lack of equipment. Humar was dressed, and wearing a duvet jacket, but that’s about all the gear he had with him. “I couldn’t find any rope,” Anthamatten said. “I couldn’t find his backpack. He had no crampons on. He had no harness on. There was nothing.
(2)Humar坠落了多少米?
Anthamatten证实,从遗体的情况看,他不会滑坠超过50米。“在我们自己山上我们遇到过类似的事故,如果某人滑坠300米,那么他会失去靴子,所有的东西都会撕掉。Humar看上去根本不是这样”
“The way the body looked, he couldn’t have fAllen more than 50 meters. We have experience of this in our mountains. Somebody falls 300 meters then they lose boots, everything is ripped off and so on. Tomaz doesn’t look like this.”
(3)Humar为什么会发生事故?要搞清楚这个问题,先让我们来回顾一下Humar的攀登经历
13. November 1994: Ganesh V (6770 m), in Ganesh Himal, new variation on SE face, with Stane Belak-?rauf
6. May 1995: Annapurna (8091 m), N face, French Route, solo climb (the only traditional Expedition in which he participated)
4. May 1996: Ama Dablam (6828 m), new route on NW face, with Vanja Furlan
2. November 1996: Bobaye (6808 m), 1st ascent of the summit, NW face, new route "Golden Heart", solo climb
1. October 1997: Lobuche East (6119 m), NE face, new route "Talking About Tsampa", with Janez Jegli? and Carlos Carsolio
9-11. October 1997: Pumori (7165 m), SE face attempt of new route up to 6300 m - then after participation in rescue action at N reached the summit by normal route), with Janez Jegli?, Marjan Kova?
31. October 1997: Nuptse West top (NW, 7742 m), W face, new route, with Janez Jegli? (who died during descent)
26. October 1998: El Capitan (2307 m) (Yosemite), route Reticent Wall A4-A5, 3rd solo climb (1st solo by non-American)
2. November 1999: Dhaulagiri (8167 m), new route on S face (up to 8000 m, without reaching the top), solo climb
26. October 2002: Shisha Pangma, (8046 m), with Maxut Zhumaiev, Denis Urubko, Aleksej Raspopov, Vassiliy Pivtsov
June 2003: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), his first attempt to climb Rupal (S) Face, up to ca. 6000 m
22. December 2003: Aconcagua (6960 m), S face, new route with Ale? Ko?elj
October 2004: Jannu (7711 m), E face, attempt solo up to 7000 m
23. April 2005: Cholatse (6440 m), NE face 2nd ascent with new variation, with Ale? Ko?elj, Janko Opre?nik
Aug 2005: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), attempt to solo climb Rupal (S) Face, up to 7000 meters (with famous helicopter rescue action - see main text above)
October 2006: Baruntse (7129 m), W face of SE ridge, solo
28. October 2007: Annapurna (8091 m), S face, new route, solo climb
(ca.) 8. November 2009: Langtang Lirung (7227 m), S face solo attempt, died during descent
很容易发现,从28. October 2007完成Annapurna (8091 m)南壁新路线的solo后,到发生事故的蓝塘里壤峰攀登之间长达两年的时间里,Humar没有进行过任何攀登,作为梅斯纳尔眼中最伟大的阿式登山家,正当壮年,连续休息两年,这很不寻常。在这两年中究竟发生了什么事,让这位最伟大的阿式登山家停止攀登,这些和事故的发生又有什么样的关联呢?今天就到这里,等我更新吧



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